Paudie’s Photoblog

March 25, 2009

And no for something completely similar

Filed under: Life, the universe and everything, Surfing — Tags: , , — paudie @ 6:23 pm

Was walking into college today with headphones on, got sick of the music so took them off and the world popped back into stereo around me. Reminded me of some crazy times out shooting.

The feeling I’m talking about is when you just scrap through a big wave and pop out the other side. You’re so focused on making it under the wave that you tend to zone out any sound so when you pop out the back of the wave every sound suddenly comes rushing back, like you’ve been standing outside a gig hearing only bassy sounds then go inside and hear everything. Even if your only hearing the crash of the waves and the hiss of the spray landing around you.

You can kind of get the same sensation by pulling down your hood in winter, but beware. And anyway it’s not as effective as swimming for your life (it always seems to be a life/death situation in my head) then pushing through to sweet relief and life on the other side.

Can happen after wipeouts as well I guess but I’m usually too disorientated to take notice.

Couldn’t find a photo to accompany this piece so here’s a photo of a bullock at sunrise somewhere in Clare.

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1 Comment »

  1. know what you mean… and like the bullock… we went to sligo last summer but thinking of looking around Clare this. Anywhere to park a van for a couple of weeks near a sweet wave?

    Comment by matt — March 25, 2009 @ 7:38 pm


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