Both for and the blog.
Popped in for a (very) quick one in L.A.hinch today.
My first wave was a laughable attempt at a right (backhand). Very wobbly take off, one foot at a time job, I somehow managed to be standing by the time I got to the bottom, pumped a little to get speed then stopped. I managed to pump off the wave. Go me.
Next one was a little better managed to actually bottom turn go to the lip and come back down before I lost my speed. Then caught a left that closed out so I took it in on my belly.
Jaysus I’m unfit.
Strict pool regime starting tomorrow.
In the meantime, normal photoblog service resumes with my boy Jacko Scanes whacking one off the top last Autumn,
