I love the rush. Just paddling pver the first wave of the set, hoping that your not too far inside, quick look over your shoulder nobody inside you swing your board around, strong and steady, feel the tail rise, paddle a bit harder, ok enough speed, up.
And down, lock that rail in,
pull under that pitching lip.
keep your line high.
Out you pop,
a French guy paddles past
“nice wave”
You just smile and nod.
More please.
Shot is Fergal, seriously backdooring.
Wow! What a shot! What a wave! Could do with some waves now, fingers crossed for the next few days.
Comment by Peter — July 21, 2008 @ 10:19 am
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